Well, it finally happened. I've had the stand start wired for a while now, but the sit always eluded me. I was either too weak to lock off the starting hold, or I was too hesitant tot trust the heinous drop knee method but for some reason the stars aligned today, November 23rd, 2012 and out of nowhere I found some ungodly strength/friction and was able to link the entire boulder of Acid Wash Right(V.9). The above picture highlights the incredible drop knee method that can (for some) unlock the opening hard move into the stand start.
I was in the canyon on an unexpected trip (we were supposed to be heading to Red Rocks to plug some cracks and clip some bolts) with the main objective of sending Morning Dove White. I had worked the aforementioned problem the previous day coming agonizingly close to a send, so with psyche high I returned but to no avail. I sat atop the rim watching the frenzy of visiting climbers scatter about the canyon and clamber up the chaotically strewn auburn boulders that littered the sandy floor. Steph was running from home to meet me in the boulderfield so I went down to wait for her by the main entrance of the Happy boulders. I set up shop near the Rave Cave and saw that a few people were trying Acid Wash Right. I thought I would give the stand a few burns and ended up pulling onto the low start and sending the move first try. Stunned, I flubbed off the finishing sequence which I had done several times before. I tried to shake off my excitement but decided that success was begging for a coffee break, so I stopped trying the problem and took a detour in order to spot Steph on some of her projects. The sun dipped behind the rim of the canyon and before we left I had to give it one more try.
I pulled into the drop knee move which is one of those time freezing moments where you feel as if you were to let out a squeak of air from your lungs the world would immediately implode on you and your entire existence would be erased from the earth. I snagged the jug and had a gut check moment. I tried to float the remaining sequence but had to let out a few power screams in order to stay on. Topping out was great. It was a feeling of redemption. A feeling of the impossible turning into the possible. I don't need to regurgitate any climbing cliches about this ascent. We all (hopefully) climb for these momnets.
The grade seems to be somewhat of a mystery. Some people seem to think its a low end 9, while others think its hard or average for the grade. All I can say about that is, well, it took me a long time to put this together. It was a process, which is what all good projects are made of. It was also very unexpected; but really, all good enetertaining, suspense-filled sends are. Regardless of what the grade is I am proud of this. It represent more than just a few extra points on the scorecard for me. I've had some long stints of no climbing in the last couple of years so its nice to overcome a challenege. I look forward to more. In life and in climbing.
Thanks for reading.
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