New Beta

Lisa staring down the barrel of the last move on Hanging Out to Dry (5.12b) at the old World Wall.

Just finished watching Germany stomp Argentina into the ground, 4 to nil (zip, nada, nothing, zero!). Relaxing in front of the glow of my lap top before heading out to Tieton for a couple days. A lot has happened in the last few weeks so here is the short and dirty version.


Mika Peterson, great friend, strong member of the Oly' climbing community, had to say goodbye to all of the people he has had a profound impact on here to go back to his home country Tanzania, Africa. Mika was an intensely positive person with a great outlook on life and I'm really proud to have known him and be able to nurture his climbing ability while he was here. On the various trips to World Wall One Mika went from redpointing .10c to bagging his first .12a! Have a great year Mika and I'm psyched to reunite someday in Africa, maybe a Rocklands trip??





Had a good weekend in Seattle where I said goodbye to more good friends Jenny and Jason who are off to live in Europe for two years. Good luck guys! I think I remember hearing about some good craigs in Europe somewhere??


Most recently, Jimmy has sent a long time nemesis at WW1 Californicator!! Great job Jimmy! And even more recently, as of yesterday Jimmy, Lisa, Kevin and I returned to World Wall where Jimmy had a great day repeating some hard classics, Techno, Psychosomatic, Hanging Out to Dry, polishing the crux on Chronic off, and winding down with Rainy Day. Lisa and I have both made good progress on Californicator. I feel really psyched on this project right now and yesterday I made leaps and bounds in refining my beta and I'm confident it will go this summer. Here are some shots of Lisa on Hanging Out to Dry.

Evergreen Massive/Kyle's Going Away Party

Mika on Belay


Eva figuring out the whole Girls in the Gym thing.


Kyle say CHEESE! Eva in the background on Reptiles


Kyle tackling the first crux on Abo

Whew! Sitting in my mother dearests' study typing away. Took a break from 'Atlas Shrugged' to write about my day. Little si was brilliant, a lot of people were there. Arrived at the crag by 11, and sent the first route with great care.
Too tired to rhyme anymore.
Showed up to the crag and was greeted by a whole crew from Evergreen including Mika, Kyle T., Ausch(spelling?), Eva, and Carrie. The forecast called for sun and we got it, but instead of 63 degree temps it was more like 50 degrees with the wind blowing the warmth from your very soul. No matter. I had a lot of energy and it was great to be at the World Wall. I kept promising myself I would give Californicator a few good burns but never got around to it, and by the time I did get around to it people were running a train on it. Oh well, I got in a good 6 pitches between 11 and 4:15. Managed Psychosomatic, Abo, Psychowussy, GITG, GITG extension(fell at very top), and of course my lady in waiting Rainy Day Woman. Overall a top notch yet cold day of wonderful climbing and to boot a send off sesh with good friend Kyle who will no longer be with us as of next week. Good luck in Colorado Kyle!! I'm super psyched on WW1, fitness felt extremely high today and I climbed all day in my Dragons which are now my go to shoe. Routes I'm psyched on: Extendorigine, Californicator, and Propaganda. Plus a few others which I will have to wait and see if I have the time or the effort to send. After talking to Audrey today I feel like I need to step it up and start getting on some .13's! That woman is extremely psyched on climbing, in great shape, and very inspiring to watch climbing.
Bad news is that it looks like the first week of April is going to be a wet one indeed and the wall was already seeping in some places(but for the most part all dry, with the exception of the far left wall). Looks like I'll have to get my kicks at the WRG.