Showing posts with label bouldering. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bouldering. Show all posts

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Big Chicken


Name this problem.

Yowza! Bouldering is hard, no? Well, at least grabbing sharp crystals and bearing down on them with all your might is hard (read: PAINFUL).
It has been two years since I have been in Squamish due to unforeseen border crossing requirements that took place in 2009, but I'm BACK! I mean, I just GOT back from a fabulous trip to the almighty Squaw. And oh how nothing has changed. I mean it, NOTHING has changed, except well, I'm a little fatter, balder, and weaker. But all that aside, it was a really nice three days filled with random social encounters, great weather, sketchy landings, and TONS of finger scraping granite slopers and crimpers.
This is the first time I have been to Squamish without at least 5 or 6 people in tow. Instead it was just me and Jimmy. It kind of felt like a business trip. We were there to 'take care of business', the first of which was a campsite. So far our mission was a failure, so we headed for the boulders instead. Black dyke, sloppy poppy, great for the warming up of forearms and fingers. Next, ATD!! Everything so far felt coated in a nice layer of moist chalk and as I shakily humped myself up the heinous mantle of ATD and walked down from the top out huffing and puffing I knew the next two days were going to be very difficult. So I basically stood back and made sure Jimmy didn't kill himself topping out everything he got on.
Jimmy went on a little Rampage of his own. Over the three days we were there he killed a handful of classics like Squealing Pork, Gibb's Cave, Worm World Cave, ATD, and literally finished the trip by sending Big Chicken. Oh yeah, as a side note we also made a short morning trip out to the Sport Temple where he managed a .13a second go. I would like to forget about my performance on the ropes that morning.
All in all it was a great trip! And, I broke down and bought the shiny new guidebook, which BTW is one of the best purchases I have made. Tons of new problems, updates to old problems, and good general info.
Now, time for some pictures:

Resurrection(V.9)


Resurrection(V.9)


Ride the Lightning(V.8)


The story about the camping goes something like this:
We were about to shell out $30 for ONE night at Klahanie falls when we were approached by a woman who identified us as climbers and offered us a spot at her site where she had her trailer and would be staying for the month. Jen was a climber as well and a very gracious host, down to earth and very fond of Rockband. We ended up paying her $20 for two nights and almost got arrested while enjoying a fire on our second night, completely oblivious to the fact that Squamish was under a very strict burn ban (sorry Canada). But it was a great deal, we enjoyed the toilets, hot water, and the picnic table that cane with the site, and even got to hang out in her trailer one night. Thanks Jen!!


Exactly how fast is this in miles per hour?


Jimmy takes a stroll down Sesame Street(V.9)



Okay, I didn't exactly get any pictures of actual sends but I will be posting a video soon of Jimmy's redpoint of Big Chicken(V.10). Check here soon.
And, we'll be headed back for round two next week. Hope to see you guys out there!

Thursday, July 30, 2009

The Meaning of Life




For a long time now I have been eager to get up to what appeared to be a magical place. So far as I could tell by the homemade youtube movies laboriously produced by none other than local bouldering messiah Kelley Sheridan, Lake Serene was a bouldering/chilling paradise! The stage was set, the fire lit, and all I needed was a cast of willing characters to support me in my trek to find this outdoor enthusiast promise land. Last year my friend Nick and I kicked the idea around of carrying a crash pad or two up there to see what all the fuss was about, but those plans were run over by the all too accessible bouldering Mecca that is Leavenworth. Ho hum.
This summer has been a bit different. Adding some new faces to the crowd, and a bit of a twist on our incentives to seek out this place, we were off. 7:00 a.m. brought Greg, Erica, and Sarah to my door step. We loaded up the car, picked up Nick and were driving up route 2 at 10:30. We stumbled upon the access road to the trail head for Lake Serene with little to no directions and in a matter of turns were at the parking lot. The hike was rumored to be a killer. 3.7 miles doesn’t sound all too impressive to the weathered hiker but keep in mind that 1.5 of those miles you gain several thousand feet in elevation. We set a furious pace, reaching the more tedious switch backs in less than half an hour passing Bridal Veil Falls on our way:


Bridal Veil Falls as seen from the main trail.


Greg is a true master of stone.


Almost there, the views really start to open up.

The switch back part was not that bad. In fact the whole hike up wasn’t that bad, especially since I had been training my extreme hiking skills by slogging to and from Bob’s area 4 times in one week! We laughed our abs off the whole way up the trail and a big props/shout out/thank you goes to Greg who manned up and carried a half case of beer, bottle of wine, pounds of food, AND crash pad the whole way up. I don’t want to hear anyone complain about a hike ever again in this mans presence; he WILL school your ass! The farther we made it up the mountainside the more apparent the far reaching views and absolute solitude became. We finally reached a stretch of trail that reeked of flowers and herbs and I could tell we were close. I ran p and over a small hill after hearing a shriek of delight there it was, the mouth of the Lake Serene area. It was absolutely a dream…


The small rock in the distance on the lake is the huge slab of granite we called home for the day.

I knew exactly where our party had reservations and did not stop until I had crossed a small granite slab, snow field, and talus field passing several impressive boulders along the way. We made our home on a huge boulder with a slanted flat top, perfectly overlooking the lake, and conveniently sporting an absolutely fitting 20foot drop into a deep pool of water.


Nick swallowed up by the brilliance of the snow field.

The sun was blazing down and we spread ourselves out on the rocks flat surface soaking it in and occasionally(okay frequently) jumping into the lake. The water was crystal clear. You could see another perfect boulder field mirrored back at you from the surface which made the jump a little intimidating until you actually did it and realized it was waaaay deeper than you imagined. The water was so clear, so blue, so life giving. It was absolutely frigid, but on this day it seemed to inspire some sort of boyhood giddiness. We were all in a constant state of bewilderment at the powerful nature of our surroundings. We were kissed by the sun and rejuvenated by the water. It was dreamlike. A day you wish could last forever, and one that will soon not be forgotten. With Mt. Index at our backs, and a calm blue lake spread out before us the mood could only be described as positive, childish fun, and big kids laughing a lot. I know, not very articulate, but I don’t really have words to describe it, literally, you have to be there.


Sarah takes the plunge!


Greg decides to handle the crack in our apartment floor.


Serene.


Psicobloc in the Northwest.


Venga! Nick!


The storm approaches.


Day dreamer.

The sun began to dip behind the towering granitic peak of Mt. Index and we had had enough of the lake. We finally decided it was time to check out the bouldering. The boulder field I can only describe as a close resemblance to Chaos Canyon in RMNP. The rock is exactly the same, polished granite with green and yellow lichen, lazer cut edges, slopers, shelves, arĂȘtes, overhangs, caves, face climbs, thin cracks, and a multitude of overhanging faces with barley enough holds to get to the top. I was blown away by the amount of rock, and the absolute potential this place holds. I saw a couple V.hard projects that would probably be some of Washington’s finest and hardest. Tall proud lines with bad landings, small overhung climbs with flat landings, the spectrum was in full effect. We had one crash pad so we looked for the least intimidating lines, with the softest landings. We had a great time on a few problems:


The first boulder of the trip, a sweet V.1 I called The Slide, because someone almost did take a slide off the backside.


Nick on the Slide with Mt. Index in the background.


Goodbye Erica!


The boulder field, this is only a small portion of the rock we saw that day.


Sarah on a brilliantly straightforward V.0 arete.


Greg wrangles the arete.


This had to be one of the cleanest lines I saw all day, a perfect seam with barley enough handholds and a clean face on both sides. Victory jugs at the top, but pulling on was super hard! Unfortunately all we could do was pull on.


A super aggressive V.3 Nick found. Great jug start to a cool pull over the lip.







Before you knew it, the clouds rolled in, the day’s atmosphere took a 180 and we were packed up and ready to hit the trail. Thunderclaps, bolts of lightening, and fat rain drops accompanied our hurried pace to the bottom. When we arrived at the car the storm had passed and we were back on the road, with a quick stop for Mexican food.
To sum it all up, the day was close to perfect and those don’t come along too often. I would have loved to have more of the crew there sharing in this wonderful place, but I know there will be more hot days to come, and this kind of activity never gets old.
I wish everyone a safe and productive trip to Squamish, and I might add I’m jealous I won’t be there!! Have fun guys.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Creeping Chasms of Chaotic Delight






All right kids, gather round the screen. Is everyone ready to hear about my latest trip? I can hear the clickety-clack of your keyboards typing the letters, Y-E-S-!-! from here so I’ll begin.
Boulder, Colorado is a magical place. A mere 20hr. drive from Seattle, as the crow flies, and well worth it. Accompanied by my brother, who we shall call Jacob, and his wife, who we will also call Jacob(2), or rather Margielize. We drowned out the deafening silence of boredom with the musical stylings of Tenacious D, Michael Buble, Classic Jazz, Cold Play, and the random selection of music and fuzz found by twitching the radio dial to and fro. We laughed here and there, slept, ate and drank, but mainly stared at the GPS screen counting the grueling miles between Seatown and the land of genetically perfect mutants(is that a paradox?), a.k.a Boulder. We were shacked up at the Golden Buff, a nice little joint replete with continental breakfast items, springy fold out couches, and the occasional Swedish orgy in the hot tub(don’t ask). We crashed at three in the morning, woke up and immediately cruised out to the old neighborhood. It was just as we had left it.


Margielize and the back of our old house.

Literally. Except we weren’t living there anymore. The sun was ablaze, the grass was green, and it was a thrill to re-visit the house in which we had spent 6 long years of our boyhood. I even managed to send V.tree.


Me, in the tree!

We drove around oohing and awing at how little everything had changed. Kind of comforting actually. It was a perfect snapshot in time of when we used to bomb down the steep hills on our mountain bikes, blast the soccer ball back and forth in the spacious field behind our house; and we took pride in pointing out the many houses that once belonged to our long lost friends who had lived in the neighborhood. Jacob remembered the way back to his old friend Jeff Lee’s house and indeed the Lee’s still lived there. Jeff, now long gone, working as a computer dude for Lockheed Martin in Taiwan, was my brother’s best friend while we lived in Boulder. Fortunately his parents remembered us and we ended up arranging a dinner date for the following Sunday. With a full list of things to do, people to see, and places to go we were off once again. The first day was filled with nostalgia as we picked up a friend of Margielize’s at the airport and continued on our blast from the past themed vacation. The Boulder library, Boulder creek, bike trail, and Pearl Street were the main attractions.


A fishing pond by the Boulder Canyon bike trail.

And let’s not forget Old Chicago’s Pizza. I think my taste buds exploded from the sheer euphoria of orgasmic, unbridled, and utterly concentrated deliciousness of the food. One marginally talented street juggler later and we found ourselves locked in battle with the fold out couch of the Golden Buff.


Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm...



The outdoor theater on the CU campus, where my father has acted several times in the past.


A message of hope on the CU campus.


Saturday started out as an adventure to find crash pads. My brother and I made our way to Neptune Mountaineering while his wife and her friend went on their own way. We scooped up some pads(not cheap!), and swerved up the tightly hugged curves of Flagstaff mountain, cautiously avoiding runners and bicyclists alike. There everywhere!!
There are no pictures of this stop because I left my camera back in the hotel room. Anyhow, I shredded some tippage at Cloudshadow, an immense piece of rock home to some of the more famous(read: hard) lines on the mountain. I managed to get scared on the highball nature of the V.1 there, but I did pull off a send of Hagan’s Wall, a crimping masterpiece, as well as some of the other moderate lines. Delicate, somewhat glassy in places with a split finger crimp at the top, I pulled over pleased, and ready to move on. I tried Just Right, figuring I could easily polish off this two move power problem. I was wrong, in fact I had to stack two pads on a rock just to reach the starting holds, and the top out didn’t look so inviting either. I managed to hit the slopey pocket 5 or 6 times but my feet flew off of the overhanging wall ripping me off the hold with them. Ho hum, I wanted to seek out the problem I came here for anyway. Hollows Way. Notorious for the grade, infamous for the landing(?), now I’m just making stuff up. It was a beautiful looking line, in the guide book, and one that decided to play hide with no seek that day. I ended up wasting an hour of purely good bouldering time looking for that stupid line. My over priced guide book indicated that it was just up from Capstan rock but we hiked the meandering trail only to end up at Red Wall and the Amphitheater staring down at a Hollow’s Way-less field below. In anger I tried a cool looking refrigerator arĂȘte that went at V.2. Needless to say in my chipmunk rage I got my ass handed to me. It started to rain, my brother pointed out a foot hold and I sent before the rain got any worse. Session over.
The last part of the day was spent with my bro hiking up the Chataqua trail in between the first and second Flatirons. We were almost to the top of the trail when thunder and lightning set in and a drenching rain poured over us. We were greeted by a fast moving, somewhat experienced looking hiker nearly running in the opposite direction. ‘You think its okay to keep going?’ I asked him, ‘Not unless you’re lightning proof!’ he retorted as he sped off down the trail. We casually started walking back down only to increase our pace drastically at the sound of a rather loud thunder clap. Don’t worry we made it down alive.

Sunday was a trek to Winter Park. In the winter it’s a dope ass ski resort, but in the summer it’s still a dope ass ski resort only with no snow. We were there to dominate the Alpine slide, and if you don’t know what that is you’re not cool enough to read this blog. A large fiberglass pipe snaked its way down the immense snow-less slope, and we were hopped up on low oxygen, and childhood memories, ready to throw ourselves down it. Between runs we managed an overly priced cheeseburger (around $4,000, thank god they let me take out a loan to pay it off), and I got to destroy the overly polished outdoor rock wall. I Sharma growled my way to the top of each line, YES in my TENNIS SHOES! Suck on that Ondra. As I left the wall burning in my glorious wake I may have peeked over my shoulder only to see a 7 year old double dynoing up each line; I did not return. All in all we stomped out 11 laps on the alpine slide, the record is 26 but that guy is a loser. And headed back to Boulder only to be treated by the Lee’s to a 10 course Chinese dinner. I had food creeping back out of my throat at the end. Mrs. Lee ordered in Mandarin and the waiter just kept on bringing out dish after dish. Mongolian beef, Chinese basil chicken, honey walnut shrimp, fried prawns, spring rolls, some type of noodle dish with chicken, beef, prawns, and veggies, honeyed tofu, steamed rice, cilantro/onion/chicken soup, and some sort of beef soup concoction that I was stupid enough to try. The broth consisted of magma, fire, red hot coles, chilies, chili seeds, and dragon’s breath. After I regained consciousness(I blacked out from the heat) it was clear that we had made the right choice in having dinner with these two wonderful people. The Lee’s are number one in hospitality, and for three hours we ate and engulfed ourselves in conversation and laughter. After the meal we also saw a movie, UP, pretty entertaining.

Monday we set out to Estes Park, home of RMNP. A small town with awesome views and world class bouldering a mere 20 minutes in every direction. We met up with a friend of the friend of Margielizes who turned out to be my future wife. Aaaahhhhh…Chamilla. She teaches 8th grade science over the school year and on her summer break works as an EMT park ranger for RMNP. I’m in love! Her energy was invigorating, and I tried to make stupid jokes just to hear her laugh awkwardly in between bites of a huge Belgian waffle. We followed her back to her place and she heaved piles of clothing at us since we were grossly under-dressed for the cold temps and windy affect of the higher altitudes of RMNP. She also bestowed upon us her free pass into the park, saving us $20! As she waved goodbye from her 4-runner I mouthed the words ‘I love you’, and I could have sworn I saw her give me a thumbs up as she drove off in the distance, or maybe she was just adjusting her rear-view mirror. Anyway, we made it into the park and I saw some freakishly cool looking boulders off the side of the road covered in chalk. We drove on by, my mouth gaping.


RMNP


RMNP ranger station.


The trail up to the summit.


Who is that handsome looking man?


Peeking between the rocks.

Swirling up the mountainside were views of snow capped mountains and frozen lakes. We made it to the summit ranger station, also home to the ‘CafĂ© in the Sky’, and made the short walk to the summit, a mere 12,000 feet in elevation. After the hallucinations of god massaging my brain subsided due to a lack of oxygenated blood pumping through my veins, we trekked back down the mountain and stopped at a meadow full of grazing elk.


We were greeted as liberators.


Is he...?


Velvety.

We finally made it back to Boulder in order to hike up another trail to scope out some boulders. We arrived at Chataqua just in time for a monstrous thunder storm. Triple, and even quadruple bolts of lightening entertained us as we waited for nature’s temper tantrum to subside. I kept saying, ‘It’ll pass in twenty minutes.’ And for once I was right.


The Flatirons, from right to left:1st, 2nd, 3rd.



Why it's good to wait to hike until after the storm is over.

We hiked up the trail with a double rainbow at our backs. When we got to the boulder field I ran around gawking and gaping at the boulders totally psyched to come back the following day and get some bouldering in.


The foothills shrouded in the aftermath of the rainstorm.


Jacob and Margielize.


J and M.

Tuesday. My bro and I rented a pad and panted our way up to the boulder field we scoped out the day before, known as the Satellite Boulders. The Sattelites are a collection of boulders nestled between the second and third Flatirons. The approach is steep, infact I’ve never done so much work for a few hours of bouldering. However it was worth it. The rock is top notch. A hybrid cross of Smith Rock-like volcanic tuff, quartzite, and Maple Canyon-esque conglomerate (this last part makes it sound like choss but it’s far from it!) We started off at the Stardust boulder where I did a few problems including the stellar Aerogel. Jacob even managed a V.1! Nice!


Me going horizontal on Aerogel(V.5)


Making the lunge!

From there we sampled a lot of moderate problems. I tried a V.8 called Face Full of Brian but didn’t manage to stick the crux move. According to my guide book there are only maybe 20 problems up here, but according to the internet which I cruised the night before, there are between 90 and 100, in this one area! Leavenworth aint got nuthin’ on that!


Jacob crushing at the Sattelites.




Me on Re-Entry Burn(V.6), and the backside of the BBC boulder.

The best boulder I saw that day, was ironically labeled in the guidebook as the Best Boulder in the County(BBC for short). Many striking and hard lines crimped and sloped their way up this overhanging beast, Grundel City Boy(V.9), Balance in Nature(V.6), and The Turning Point(V.9, actually located on top of the boulder on a mammoth sized pillar that fell over and created a nice over hung slab of rock) were all spectacular to see. However the spotlight most undeniably fell on a problem called Fleshfest. This amazing highball prow left me speechless. V.10 from the low, and V.6 from the high, it was streaked with red, black, and tan hues, as well as lichen. The pictures don’t really do it justice:


The essence of a boulder problem.


Me straight wimpin' out!

Fleshfest is one of those lines that inspire you to climb, regardless of the grade. I had to try it at least from the stand start but only having one pad and a nasty crippling fall below I backed down. I would be willing to come back just to try and climb this one line. Perfect.
The day jogged on by, and as my skin got thinner and thinner we finally hiked back down and hung out at Chataqua, pleased to have spent the last day of our trip in one of the most beautiful places in Boulder.
That last night we walked up and down Pearl Street and took in an amazing street performance by none other than the world class juggler Derek-Derek. As he ridiculed passers-by for not stopping at his show, made jokes, and kept the mood humorous and up-beat, he also juggled fire vigorously, included members of the audience in his show, and flung his ‘diablo’ high into the air only to catch it on a wire thin piece of string behind his back. It was a perfect way to remember the trip and add another chapter to our book of memories surrounding Boulder, Co.


Goodbye Boulder! I will miss all of the stunningly hot women, finely sculpted boulders, and spectacular views!