Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Should one provide slippers for guests?

re-post

In some Eastern European and Asian countries, guests change from their shoes into slippers provided by the host.

Some argue that if you intend to have a shoes-off policy in your home, you should keep some slippers for guests to wear. It is argued that this will make them feel more comfortable and prevent embarassments such as foot odour and holes in socks.

I am not inclined to think so. If slippers are provided, then they must either be disposable plastic slippers or else slippers that can go in the washing machine. It would be quite unreasonable to expect guests to wear slippers that have been worn by somebody else that day. I am not sure whether most slippers are machine washable. Some guests might not even trust you that they really have been cleaned and may prefer to stay in bare or stocking feet.

I think the practise of providing guest slippers might be just a bit too weird for British. Many British people will have been to a house where shoes-off was required, but not many people will have been offered guest slippers to wear, unless it was in another country. I think a lot of English guests would prefer to go barefoot, rather than wear slippers that are not their own. In conversations I have had with people about Japan, I have noticed people go 'ew' at the idea of wearing borrowed slippers.

It might be a good idea to buy slippers for family and regular visitors and keep them at your house. These should be worn only by the person they are provided for. Hopefully, one's family and close friends would be delighted by this consideration.

Providing clean socks is a different matter. I would suggest keeping a supply of clean socks in different sizes by the door for guests who are not comfortable going barefoot.

I think it is very sensible to let visitors know in advance that one has a shoes-off rule in one's home. That way, they can be sure to wear socks without holes or bring their own slippers if they prefer.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Gettin' Pitches!


Just warming up...


Pulling in front of my mom’s house in Seattle is always followed by a welcome sigh of relief. Not only out of finally reaching my destination, but also to know my sanctuary is still here. Her backyard is an ordered chaos of vegetation. From vegetables, herbs, flowers, ferns, and fruit trees, to the soft moss that borders the slated walkway the solace offered here is unbeatable and I always look forward to visiting her.


My idea of a fireworks display.








growth.

After a good day of jogging with my dog and catching up with my mom I made the short drive(30 mins. to Little si and Mt. Washington=people who live in Seattle are fucking spoiled!!!) to the Mt. Washington pull out and met my friends Greg and Nick. We laughed and joked around the whole way up the trail stopping very briefly so that I could handle a route I should have sent years ago, Giant. Located at one of the coolest crags in this area, Giant traverses the lip of an Actual Cave on a bomber incut jug rail all the way to a small throw for a good flat jug. The stop was brief but well worth it.


One of the greatest.

After that we were on our way, Greg and Nick both setting a good pace with their spider-like legs and long gaits. The first stop was Chainsaw Wall.


Greg and Nick at the Chainsaw Wall.

A small crag well exposed to a great view and home to some of the best routes I’ve ever touched. My Evil Plan, and Stihl Fingers are probably the gems of the area. I had sent everything except Stihl Fingers and I came to collect. The sun fell farther and farther behind the wall and the shadow line soon encompassed our little party entirely. The rock was warm, and my first go back on Stihl Fingers was a disaster. It felt impossible, and the feet were like tiny dime edges that laughed at me every time I popped off of one. Needless to say it wasn’t the most confidence building re-visiting. Nick gave it a try as well, cruxing a bit in the middle but firing the rest. Greg attempted to onsight the .10c there but backed off after a few clips and hung out taking pictures and video of Nick and I growling at the tiny crimps in this wonderfully black streaked seam.


Nick on My Evil Plan(5.11c).


Me cruxing on Stihl Fingers(5.12a).


Nick displays his steel fingers on Stihl Fingers.


Yet another picture of Stihl Fingers.


My second go back on Stihl Fingers I almost fell off the third clip but fired the rest perfectly and skipped clipping the last draw in favor of making the last big move out to a jug. I was pretty psyched to have this in the bag, and want to reiterate that it is probably one of the best single pitch sport climbs I have ever done in my life. I know, it sounds like an over-exaggeration, and maybe the climb is still reverberating around in my mind enough to cause me to say something like that, but only time will tell. Nick got back on and after taking a fall and dirting him to try it again he sent with a great uprising of effort at the very end. He also cleaned up My Evil Plan second go, and Greg got back on the horse and was able to clip the chains of the .10c. We packed up and headed up to Bob’s area just above our heads. Dom was raving about Alpinia and I had checked out this small crag before and remember it looking great so that was our next destination.
Up some steep trails and winding through a small patch of trees we were spit out at the base of Alpinia, a small slabby looking wall with great features, rock, and a quality view and hang out spot.
After an embarrassing call to Dom, because I had forgotten to bring the guide book, he set us on track with the route beta and I managed an onsight of Green Buddha, a stellar .11b there that involves some nice stemming in a smooth corner.


Me on Green Buddha(5.11b).


Nick's got the long stem down! Green Buddha.

Nick stepped up to the onsight plate as well and went for Inverted Rain Ascending but this technical and beta-intensive masterpiece was not to be undone so easily. After ticking some crucial holds for me I went for the flash. I struggled through the crux, almost barn-doored off the arĂȘte, hung out on a bad rest for waaaaaaay too long, and finally grabbed some jugs at the top, threw a leg up and gave a gasp of exasperation and triumph. I had an awful pump I my forearms but was glad to be sitting on top. Afterwards, Nick speed flashed Green Buddha, and Greg took a bad fall sandwiching his leg between to sharp rocks. Yeouwch! Being the straight up soldier that he is, Greg laughed off the pain and we walked down the trail a bit to another short sport climb called Salterello Presto, a really cool bouldery .11a.


Greg on the crux move of Salterello Presto(5.11a).


Nick hung the draws, and Greg tried to get past the first hard couple of moves but will have to wait for next time. I really enjoyed this climb because of the really neat crimps on it, and the bouldery sequence and of course the rock quality. We headed a little further down the trail to the last bit of the crag where some sweet looking routes lay in wait for us. We only had time for one, so I ended the day on a long slabby 5.6 with a great view at my back.
All the crags along the Mt. Washington trail are awesome but Bob’s area and the crags in close proximity are really starting to grow on me. The views, the rock quality, the quality of the routes, and even the hike are all giving me that ‘hot and bothered’ feeling when I start to think about them and I look forward to returning soon.

The end.

Monday, July 6, 2009

They Were Five



It’s always good to have a car full of friends, new and old, as you speed towards the day’s events yet to unfold. Typically an even amount of people is desired for a day of climbing but our group of five worked out quite well. Accompanying me on this trip was the usual suspects Dom and Laura, and my faithful belay partner as of late Greg, with one new face Melody. Besides the occasional game night and a small stint at Karaoke I had only met Melody a handful of times.
The agenda was as follows: A few hours at Little si, grunting and groaning on the projects, and then heading to Exit 38 to catch some shade and cooler temps at Nevermind, where subsequently more grunting and groaning occurred.
The heat just hit you in the gut as you stepped out of the car and we trudged up the approach trail to World Wall 1, myself soaking wet and feeling a little sleepy from the summer sun. I got a mellow start on Girls in the Gym as Dom, Laura and Melody warmed up on Devils Advocate. Greg hit Girls in the Gym on TR, but wisely decided to save his strength for what was to come at Deception Crag.
Oh no! That means? It’s time for me to go face to face with my latest proj. Judgment Day Direct. This would be my fourth attempt on this short bouldery sport route and I had the moves dialed. I didn’t feel like I climbed it very well, I even flailed a little on the first crux, but each move I felt as if I was going to come off but held it together. I came so close to sending but just gave up at the last throw slipping out of the move to the undercling. I was pleased to get it down to one hang and I’m really excited and nervous to come back and try to finish it off. The moves are hard and bouldery and I always feel a little intimidated by those kinds of routes. You never really know how you’re gonna’ feel until you step off the deck and start growling or whimpering. We wound down our session with Dom, Laura, and Melody getting on Reptiles and Amphetamines, and Dom getting his high point on Californicator. He’s really keen on this route right now and I know what that leads to. I got a lap in on Rainy Day(of course) and we packed up and headed on back to the car.


Me pulling my big butt over the ledge on Rainy Day.

Climbing into my air conditioned car was a welcome feeling and we arrived at the Exit 38 parking lot around 4:00. Nevermind was alive with a few groups of climbers, some looking like they had climbed here there whole lives while others appeared to be making their debut on the climbing scene(quote:”I always seem to see the sketchiest stuff here.”-Dom)


Greg and Melody hanging out while Dom battles the glare on Architect Rally(5.11a).


Dom on Architect Rally.

The main attraction was Steep Street for our group, Laura and Greg were both chomping at the bit. I made my way down to the far right side to throw myself at the Culture Shock/Goblet link up and fell after doing the crux, DOH! On my way back to the other side I managed to see Laura finish up on her redpoint of Steep Street! Nice job Laura! Well deserved.


Laura about to have a slab encounter on Strip Clip(5.9).

Next up was Greg, who was feeling particularly confident as of late, and had a good TR rehearsal on Steep Street just last week when we were here. Greg had only started leading last week as well, and his hardest clean lead was a 5.7, so this was a huge jump for him. He pulled on and got through the first crux smoothly; now it was just managing the pump and the head space and finishing it up which he did! Congratulations Greg! Great effort and way to step up to the plate! I can remember just last month when Greg was hesitant to do a 5.9 on top rope and now he’s leading routes left and right. A good feeling, and a sweet progression to be a part of.
The energy was good, and I decided to strike while the iron was hot and get back on Shocklet. I managed the crux with a nice growl and clipped the chains. It felt good, and I really enjoyed doing the crux sequence, bouldery and exciting because of where the last clip is. A great little link up if I do say so myself.
Laura and Melody managed Strip Clip, while I was forced to retrieve the draws off of Architect Rally, a route I had not done in years(!), it is still one of my favorites and may be the best .11a at this crag. Dom gave Goblet a couple goes and despite looking really solid was not able to get the last move, but I’m sure this won’t take him very long.





As time was beginning to get away from us we headed down to the Substation, a nice little crag just beneath the Iron Horse Trail bridge. I had seen a stellar looking long slabby climb here that went at 5.6 and it turned out to be a pretty good climb. Not the easiest 5.6 I’ve ever done either, smears and slopey holds kept me on my toes almost the whole way, not to mention the 20ft run outs. After top roping leads all day Melody finally stood up and decided she wanted to lead this route as well. Bold decision, but she ended up sending, and to top that this was her first lead route outside. The girl’s got balls, what can I say.


Melody on Homo Erectus(5.6)


Melody.


Aaaahhh, it's a monster!


Laura TR's the hardest .10d in the world! Subversive.


The substation gang.

We did a few more routes here, Subversive being the hardest; at .10d it’s the most pumped I’ve ever been on a 5.10 of any grade with each move potentially throwing me, really proud onsight. Greg lead another 5.9 and we all ended the day laughing, farting(or at least I was anyway), and enjoying the cool breeze that set in as the sun set. It was a sick, sick, sick day of climbing and I’m really becoming a fan of changing venues throughout the day. It’s fun to get a few burns in on a project at Little si, and then making your way up I-90 to play around on some easier stuff. Plus it just keeps you moving, thinking, and enjoying your surroundings.
I have felt a lot more confident on getting new routes lately and I feel like I’m finally starting to get this rope climbing thing down again.

Sock Shop

Sock Shop is a firm that sells only socks and hoisery. According to an article in the Daily Telegraph, it is relaunching its chain of specialist stores. These stores had not been much of a success in the past.

As I favour flip flops all the time, I only wear socks at work (sometimes) or when there is snow. I can't see myself buying many pairs from Sock Shop. But I totally approve of the shop. If people buy fancy and stylish socks, they are going to want to show them off and are not going to reming removing their shoes.

Friday, July 3, 2009

Wow, this confirms a lot of things

Britain’s ‘Chaps’ Too (House) Proud To Party

18-24 year olds are Britain's most house-proud and cautious hosts, as financial concerns around home dramas turn people into paranoid party poopers, reveals Greenbee Home Insurance.

Step aside Hyacinth Bucket. Turning stereotypes on their head, research reveals that 18-24 year olds are turning into a nation of CHAPS…that’s Cautious Hosts Against Party Stress. Twenty-six per cent of the house-proud and overly cautious young hosts make guests remove their shoes to safeguard their floors, almost double that of those aged 65+ (14%) who may have been expected to be the most mishap-minded.


A study has found that young people in Britain aged 18-24 are the most likely hosts to ask guests to remove their shoes. Apparently this is most common in the Midlands (where I have lived most of my life).

Maybe I am a but surpised about the Midlands bit. In my experience, removing shoes is more common in the south.

But as for young people, I totally see that. The article mentions finance as being the main reason, but I think it is also the fact that many of us were required to remove shoes when we were children. We have sort of grown up with removing shoes.

The future is bright, the future is Offalist

What did they do?

One of the letting agents visited my apartment today to carry out an inspection. I was at work at the time, though I knew one was coming.

I can't help wondering whether the agent took her shoes off. I was not there to ask her, but she would have seen my 'Please take your shoes off' doormat. What did she do?

Wednesday, July 1, 2009

Holes in the Ozone


The 'Crew'.

I don’t have a whole lot to say, and even less time to say it in, so here goes.
The weekend started off great, with a day trip to Little si, and an extra helping of Exit 38 in the same day. I have fallen in love with the bouldery moves of Judgement Day Direct(I’ve decided to call it by it’s real name since I met the creator at Little si), and I had a good re-visiting with the Shocklet link up at Nevermind, which also has very bouldery moves at the crux. Both routes involve making hard moves above the clips which is exhilarating and inspiring at the same time. Greg made leaps and bounds in his climbing confidence and started leading his first routes at 38. Feeling good he also went for the lead of Steep Street but got a little pumped out at the crux. However he managed it clean on TR his second go and I think this will be his first hard lead next time out.
That night was a blur of good and bad karaoke, but always infused with laughter and smiling faces(and some crazy dance moves!)
Sunday was a trip to a new spot, Ozone. This little crag is found skirting the banks of the Columbia River and while the drive felt like it took days, upon arrival the crag was buzzing with people, and even better new routes to feast upon. And feast we did. Jimmy and Dom crushed almost all of the .12a’s(crushed=onisghted or flashed calmly and coolly), while Laura and new friend(to me anyway) Chaz made short work of the long and involved 5.8’s/9’s/and10’s. While I wasn’t thrilled by the rock quality in some spots- the only basalt I’ve really enjoyed climbing on is the stuff at Smith-a lot of the routes were bullet hard basalt and were top notch involving many roofs, crack systems, flat edges and ledges, crimps, slopers, sidepulls, and the whole lot. It was an absolute thrill getting on new routes and I have forgotten what it feels like to visit a new crag and not be totally overwhelmed by volume or felt totally out of place. Ozone is a great crag to hang out, with the exception of the extreme downhill angle found at parts of the trail, and no matter what your skill level, offers several mixed trad/sport routes, strictly sport routes, trad routes, and some kick ass roofs. I can’t wait to go back and get my hands dirty all over again.


Dom tackles a 5.11a with a sweet roof.


The far right side of the Ozone layer.


Laura's silhouette dancing up a 5.9.


Dom flashes The Crumbling(5.12a).


Jimmy at full extension on Stack Face(?)(5.12c).


Jimmy.