STORE LOCATOR: VMC ORIGINAL - ZURICH

The shop was opened in 1986 by Markus Cadruvi and after a few years Roger Hatt, who owns together with his wife the shop today, joined the team. Roger began his career as a mechanic, but it was in the world of denim he found his passion. Back then, VMC used to have a small second hand area with vintage Big E’s and, as the first Japanese denim brand in the shop, Roger (who’s featured on the cover of the latest edition of The Heritage Post) introduced Evisu to the Zurichers 15 years ago. Today 40% of denim sales in the shop are based on Japanese jeans from brands like Iron Heart, Flat Head and Warehouse. VMC is divided into three sections, the latest being a women’s department. From cash register and the men’s shoe department you enter the sportswear department. The basement is dedicated to denim with an entire wall of indigo with all kinds of shades, washes, shapes and sizes. The basement is also where you find the extensive boot selection. Everthing is piled up and neatly folded. The shop the packed with vintage props like orignal Buddy Lee dolls. (for more pics and full story check Denimhunters) Whenever you are in Zurich check VMC @ Rindermarkt 8

ATELIER LaDURANCE - LES BEAUX DE PROVENCE

Some 10 years ago a Dutch guy named Gerard Backx moved to the Southern France and founded a denim brand called Atelier LaDurance. I'm not sure if he named his brand after the river  la Durance which runs in that area. Being out of the picture for some season the brand is back on the shelves, still having it's DNA - The big square flap pockets, cross stitching, and the vichy pocket lining are just a few of the details that define Atelier LaDurance.

100 YEARS LEE UNION-ALL 1913 - 2013

1913

THE LEE UNION ALL

Said to be inspired by his chauffeur, when he repaired his car, H.D. Lee gets the idea to design a suit, that supports both: from the waist down and protects the upper body.

A jacket and trousers are sewn together and thus form a long-armed suit. Since the overall is suitable as a one-piece work clothing for car mechanics, railroad workers, farmers and other occupational groups, the Union gained immediately popularity All across the country. With the jumpsuit H.D. Lee was only responding to his chauffeur who was complaining that his uniform was dirty every time when he repaired the car of his boss. The Union-All work clothing makes Lee a household name. 

2013

THE LEE UNION ALL

Lee 101 is celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Union All with 101 units available worldwide in a Kaihara lightweight overdyed selvage chambray. You can do the job. (last 3 pics from the Lee 101 SS 2013 campaign)

BLUE JEANS @ CENTRAAL MUSEUM

Tonight, I was invited to see the Blue Jeans exposition @ Centraal Museum, Utrecht. This beautiful displayed time travel trough jeans is put together by Joachim Baan & Pauline Broekman, daughter of the owner of Thom Broekman & De Rode Winkel. This year the Broekman stores celebrates it's 175 anniversary and dedicates it to denim. With some help from business partners they even got an 18 century painting on display called Master of the Blue Jeans, Woman begging with two children. (for more pics see Long John)

EDWIN, WHAT'S IN STORE NEXT YEAR?

I had the change to have a sneak peak at the Edwin showroom in Holland. But who is Edwin?

Established in Japan 1947

Mr Tsunemi had a passion for denim, which inspired him to import them directly from the United States as no denim was manufactured in Japan at that time. Used, worn-out and dirty denim which had to be laundered and mended by hand in order to sell on to his customers. In 1951 domestically manufactured denim was available for the first time in Japan. This product was expensive and of inferior quality compared to its American counterparts. Mr Tsunemi was driven to create his own denims, with greater sophistication in fits, washes and quality. In 1961 Mr. Tsunemi crafted the first pair of Edwin denim jeans. Utilising the letters D, E, N, I & M (reversing the M creating a W) he created the brand name ‘Edwin’. You can find Edwin Jeans at the best Denim Stores in Europe like 14Oz, Burg & Schildt, The Globe, Tenue de Nimes, Country House and Mann just to name a few.

LIVING ON THE EDGE

Selvage denim (US) or Selvedge (UK) is a type of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does not unravel. The selvage edges are along the out-seam of the jeans, making it visible when cuffs are worn and visible or invisible at the pocket. In the early years of denim production the fabric was woven on shuttle looms, from a single thread, and with self forming natural edges at the sides (self-edge). Shuttle looms weave a narrower piece of fabric, and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a pair of jeans (appr. 3 yards / 2,75mtr). The selvage edge is usually stitched with colored thread. Fabric mills used these colors to differentiate between fabrics, Levi's was red, Lee was yellow and Wrangler was green. However, as denim became more and more popular in the 50s, and mass production became the focus of jeans manufacturers. The old shuttle looms were replaced by projectile looms. These new looms were capable of producing denim faster, and in bigger quantities, however the produced fabric was not woven from a single thread anymore, and lost the self-edge.

Today, selvage denim is valued for its irregularities and character, and is typically more expensive than regular denim. Selvedges in jeans usually denote high quality denim, albeit there are many factors to consider with denim quality.

CHAD @ LEE STORE UTRECHT

Last Thursday, the Lee Utrecht Store opened it's doors, in 3D,  DJ's, Drinks & Denim. I was invited by Rutger (on the right), on of the Dutch sales reps. and Nora (marketing) for the opening of this 90 square meter store at the Steenweg 26, Utrecht. The store is designed as Lee's International Store concept called The Lee Black System and it's the second in The Netherlands. The Interior is a combination of natural materials and black, vintage elements are added, like Persian rugs and 50s styled mahogany furniture. The store contains a full man & woman's collection plus a Lee 101 collection with nice dry denims and some reproductions from the archives like my favorite, the Hickory Jacket. There is just one thing I missed......where is Buddy Lee?