The Gaf (5.10d)

Last night I went out to the wall to make history!! I sunk the first bolts into the crag making Sitka's first sport route :) It was hard work, but it only took me an hour and a half to set up the gear, and put 5 bolts in the rock. I felt nervous and confident at the same time. Over the last week I have done a lot of research about bolting and what kind of gear to use and even managed to speak with a Petzl rep on the phone. I found a few videos on Youtube that were helpful as well as a really well written document by Eric Horst. I've also found this site to have the best prices and selection on everything you need to start bolting routes in any condition or on any type of rock.

The bolts I used are pretty standard, 5 piece Rawl expansion bolts with stainless steel hangers, 3/8" by 3", and a 3" SDS drill bit and a DEWALT D25323K 1" Heavy Duty SDS Rotary Hammer. I had drilled a few test holes in some random pieces of cement and rock and was really blown away by how easily this thing puts a hole in something. Infact, the entire process is pretty easy, but when you are starting out you have nothing to compare your experience to so I found myself always thinking in the back of my mind, 'Is this right?'.

I was excited that all of my placements were on bomber rock in the exact places I wanted them on the route, to ensure no sketchy run outs and easy clipping stances. The greatest success was that I didn't have any spinners, something that I was really worried about going into this. I've learned A LOT already from my first time out and now I am totally hooked! I'm ordering more bolts and am scoping out new lines on top of the already established lines I've done on the left and middle of this wall.

It's funny when I think about how my perspective on climbing has changed and 'evolved' over the years. I never really had any inclination or desire to want to start developing routes, and I guess I really wouldn't have either if I hadn't moved to a place that forced me to grow as a climber. It's less about progressing physically and more about learning respect for something that I have really taken for granted in the past. It's something completely new and exciting and just an overall different experience that I more than welcome into my growing library of life. Plus, it's a pretty damn cool way to leave your mark. I have checked out another crag adjacent to this one that will need a bit more cleaning but has potential for some really nice lines on easier terrain. I rapped down a nice vertical to slabby line last week and did some cleaning and I think that will be my next hit. I really want to put something up that everyone in the small climbing community can enjoy and learn on. Right now I'm psyched for myself, and to finally have something to lead; but I think it will be an even more fulfilling experience to watch other people lead my routes. Here is a peek for some other lines I have planned for the wall. Most of them I have alreqdy climbed via TR.